Friday was the day of the midterm, but more importantly, it was the day that many of us would be setting out on our weekend trip to Vienna. The midterm began at 10:30, and under two hours later everyone had handed it in and those of us leaving were headed to Keleti Palyaudvar (West Trainstation in Hungarian). Some of us rushed through lunch hoping to catch the 2 o’clock train. Except no 2 o’clock train existed so we were left waiting til 3. A few mangy chess boards- caked with grime and laid out with greasy pieces- sat around the station, and since Hungary is known for chess, a couple of us assumed the games were just set out for all comers and went over to play. But as we approached, a pair of old men swooped in and challenged us to a game. To my surprise, the one I was playing pulled 300 forint from his pocket and laid it next to the board. I paused before realizing that the $1.50 charge (read, wager) for a bit of entertainment was worth it. I placed my money next to his, knowing full well that it wouldn’t be returning to my pocket. I wasn’t disappointed. The game lasted longer than I expected-- perhaps he decided not to worry about playing the foreigner-- but within a few turns my soldiers began dying at an increasing rate. We finished and gathered on the train to Vienna.
Compared to Budapest, Vienna seems to glow. Clean streets, fancy buildings of varying heights, glowing signs, smiling people. It felt western, and initially everyone seemed relieved to be leaving eastern Europe for a more familiar setting. The Pension Shermin sat on the second floor of an apartment complex with a gated entry. Posters of 1950's American actors covered the walls, and the rooms had high ceilings and brass chandeliers, but were clearly smaller than the ones we have in Budapest. After the trip, everyone was starving, and our guide (a student from the Vienna interim trip) convinced us to check out a German restaurant a few blocks from the hotel. Everyone had either Spaetzle (German noodles) or Schnitzel (meat, pounded out and breaded) for dinner. After eating, we walked into the center of Vienna by Stephansdom Cathedral, a giant gothic structure with an enormous bell tower. The surrounding neighborhood still wore its Christmas lights which glittered off of the gold and marble statues everywhere. After the walk, we stopped for gelato then returned to the hotel and crashed for the night.
Saturday was a whirlwind of adventure and at the end of the day all our feet felt it. We started our morning early, eating a delicious continental breakfast that was a little more accommodating than the one we are used to in Budapest. It was mostly the same except for the addition of nutella, which took the sting out of getting up early. After breakfast we trekked to the Naschtmart (an open air market that takes up over a block) and since it was Saturday morning we were graced by the addition of the weekly flea market. The Naschtmart contained delicacies of all kinds and for lunch a small group of us sought out the best cheeses, meats, breads and fruits.
In addition to the market we saw St. Steven’s Cathedral and climbed the more than 300 steps it takes to reach the top of the south tower. The view was absolutely breathtaking, as was the walk. The Cathedral was magnificent inside but unfortunately we could not take the tour of the catacombs because there just was not enough time for everything.
After that we trekked over to the Museum of Natural History. To describe this experience alone would take another twelve or so paragraphs but don’t fear, I will only summarize. We saw some of the most expensive jewels in the world, a block of platinum the size of my fist, and possibly most impressively, the Venus de Willendorf. It was an unforgettable experience and if given the choice, I would go back there in an instant. After leaving the Museum we went to the Treasury. There we saw beautiful crowns dating back even to the 1000s AD. We wound down the evening with some fine Italian dining and some absolutely wonderful gelato. Then it was time to go back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.
We awoke Sunday morning greeted by more sun than you could shake a stick at, and spring-like temperatures to boot. The day was kicked off with a visit to the Art History Museum, which contained vast collections of Titian, Brueghel, Van Dyck, Van Eck, Caravaggio, Perugino, Raphael, Rubens, and even ancient Greek, Roman, and Egyptian art. The remnants of the group that trekked to Vienna broke up even further at this point. The group I was in ventured to the Schloss Schönbrunn, the vast summer home of the Hapsburgs that has been coined as the Versailles of Vienna.
If the giant palace itself wasn’t enough (it was), the grounds behind were outrageously extravagant. Grand gardens led up to an imposing fountain of Poseidon and his sea-nymphs. Behind this was a large hill, upon which rested a viewing house that has been retrofitted as a café. After gazing out across Vienna and celebrating the 55-degree weather, we ventured into the palace, only to be greeted by more opulence, with rooms decorated with anything from rare rosewoods to Chinese enamel etchings to ornate frescoes and candelabras. Our time in Vienna was capped off with more gelato, and by 6pm, we were on our way home. Looking back, Vienna was great, with more sun and slightly less cigarette odor, but you could also blow through a stack of 10-euro bills like they were tissue paper. Though our time in Vienna was amazing, it’s great to be back in the land of $3 meals and number theory.
Jo éjszakát!
-Chris S., Eric, Seth
It seems you were able to cover a lot of ground in such a short period of time. Obviously from the description of Vienna, it is a far cry from what you have come to know in Budapest. But two very unique cities with so much to offer. The Venus de Willendorf and the crowns sound delightful. But of course most of all, the 'less cigarette odor' is a great thing! Another good post!
ReplyDeleteLoved the pictures - - more importantly, loved hearing about your warm spring-like weather! We are especially jealous of that! Thanks for the good posts which we read faithfully and enjoy! T & R
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